Each player chooses one of the 4 colours (green, yellow, red or blue) and places the 4 pieces of that colour in the corresponding starting circle. A single die is thrown to determine movement.
Players take turns in a clockwise order; throw of 6 on die starts.
Each throw, the player decides which piece to move. A piece simply moves in a clockwise direction around the track given by the number thrown. If no piece can legally move according to the number thrown, play passes to the next player.
A throw of 6 gives another turn.
A player must throw a 6 to move a piece from the starting circle onto the first square on the track. The piece moves 6 squares around the circuit beginning with the appropriately colored start square (and the player then has another turn).
If a piece lands on a piece of a different colour, the piece jumped upon is returned to its starting circle.
If a piece lands upon a piece of the same colour, this forms a block. This block cannot be passed or landed on by any opposing piece.
When a piece has circumnavigated the board, it proceeds up the home column. A piece can only be moved onto the home triangle by an exact throw. The first person to move all 4 pieces into the home triangle wins.
Be confident about yourself, take time to think the best move possible, think, rethink & play. You’ll start to be quick in this, the more you play, the better strategy you can make.
Open all your pieces, as soon as you get the chance.
Invest your numbers on all the pieces. If you keep running only piece, chances are it may be killed.
Remember what number can lead you to best place, what number will let you kill the opponent.
Kill your opponents as much as possible, you show some linearity & you may loose.
Keep the piece, which is nearer to the victory at safe place & move it with bigger numbers. Invest smaller numbers on pieces that are just beginning to run out of house.
If your piece is into victory & you get a chance to kill the opponent, you must go for victory. Kill him if number is too small (1 or 2) so that you can get a chance to play again.
If you have a number that is no good in any of your pieces, move the piece that is nearest to the starting point.
Pachisi was rediscovered in India by the 6th century. The earliest evidence of this game evolution in India is the depiction of boards on the caves of Ellora. Even Pachisi was evolved from a very ancient game of Chausar played in the times of epic Mahabharata (Kurukshetra War time) about 10 century BCE. This game was played between the pandavas and kauravas. Latest version as we describe as Ludo, was played by the Mughal emperors of India; a notable example is Akbar. Pachisi was modified to use a cubic die with dice cup and patented as "Ludo" in England in 1896. The Royal Navy took Ludo and converted it into the board game Uckers
In North America, the game is sold under the brand name Parcheesi. In Spain, it is called "Parchís" in Spanish and "Parxís" in Catalan. In Colombia, it is called "Parqués".
Draughts is played on a 64 square chess board. Take 12 counters of one color and place one on each of the black squares in the first 3 rows of your side. Your opponent does the same.
The object of the game is to capture all of your opponent’s pieces or block them so they cannot be moved. Pieces are always moved diagonally, 1 square at a time, towards the opponent’s side of the board. You play the entire game on the black squares, you do not need the white ones.
You can capture an enemy piece by hopping over it. Capturing is also done on the diagonal. You have to jump from the square directly next to your target and land on the square just beyond it. Your landing square must be vacant. The piece captured is removed from the board. If you are able to make a move that results in a capture then you must.
It is legal to capture more than 1 piece on a single move so long as the jumping piece has vacant landing spots in between. You cannot take 2 in a row if you must land and “take off” again. The pieces are removed. If you are able to make a move that results in a capture then you must.
If you can get a piece all the way to the other side of the board, that piece becomes a king. Place a previously captured piece on top of the existing one in order to distinguish it from your other pieces. This piece can move backwards or forwards diagonally. Towards the end of the game all the pieces will be Kings, which changes the strategy significantly.
Capture all your opponents’ pieces.
Checkers is a classic board game with a number of variations, but the most commonly played version is International Checkers on an 10x10 board, with 20 checkers per player. While the game is technically a "solved game"—which is to say, a computer has been programmed that will never lose a game, most humans do not have such a computer at their disposal. For this reason, you might appreciate these tips for how to win at Checkers.
Control the Center
For beginners, the first strategy one often figures out is to place your checkers on the edge of the board. This seems like a reasonable Checkers strategy because your pieces on the edge cannot be captured. But as it turns out, while this may be a tempting strategy in your first games, pushing your checkers to the edges is a mistake. Checkers Is Not a Game That Can Be Won by Playing Defensively Due to the possibility of forced moves, where your opponent presents you with a capture, you must take, you cannot afford to sit back and fortify. You could be forced to jump your checkers into oblivion at any time, so no defense that you build can stand up over time. Your Goal Should Be Getting a Checker to the End of the Board A kinged piece is incredibly powerful, and generally speaking, the player who kings more checkers will win. While capturing opposing checkers is generally a good thing, your biggest concern should always be kinging your own checkers.
Advance en Masse
A single checker advanced can easily be jumped and captured. A checker backed up by two more checkers is immune from capture. If you press forward with a few checkers at once, your advancing force will be much more powerful. You can also use this method to build "bridges"—a diagonal line of checkers two spaces away from your opponent's checkers. You can then advance a checker in front of this bridge, and your line of checkers will protect your advancing checker from capture.
Be Willing to Sacrifice a Checker If Necessary
At the most basic level, this means you should be willing to trade a capture for a capture when it advantages you (such as when you can capture an opponent's advanced checker, or clear out some of his base row checkers).But sometimes it can even be worth sacrificing for position. While new players should be careful not to sacrifice checkers needlessly, sacrificing a checker to clear a path to be kinged is well worth it.
Use Forced Moves to Your Advantage
You may find a situation where a single opposing checker is all that stands between your checker and the king row. In this case, a useful thing to do can be walking another one of your checkers to the opposite side of the opposing checker, forcing a capture. You'll lose your sacrificed checker, but the opposing checker will now be out of your way, and you can quickly regain the advantage once you have a king.
Leave Your Home Row Checkers Until You Need Them
Your opponent cannot get any kinged checkers without advancing into one of your four home spaces. Keeping these spaces occupied guarantees that your opponent will get no kings until your checkers move. Generally speaking, you probably won't move these checkers until you are forced to capture an opposing piece, or if you are running low on checkers.
Trade Pieces When You Are Ahead
This is a traditional strategy in many abstract board games relying on capture, but it is especially useful in checkers. With only 12 pieces on the board, to begin with, it is quite possible that you may quickly end up with an 8-7 piece advantage. This may not seem like a big deal, but if you can trade four pieces, you suddenly have a 4-3 advantage, which is a tremendous amount of power.
Watch for Kings in the Endgame
Once only a few pieces are left on the board, both players may be forced to move some home row checkers, and the path to kingship will be open. Don't trade pieces blindly (regardless of whether you're ahead) if it means that your opponent will be closer than you to getting a king when the trading is done.
Finally, Remember the Blocking Option
If you cannot move a piece on your turn, you lose. This means that if you can block in your opponent's checkers such that none of them can move, you will win.
Checkers, or Draughts, are two different names for the same board game. One is more commonly used in England, while the other is most common in America. Curiously, in this case, it is the former colonies of England which uses the older name for this seemingly simple game. By the mid-nineteenth century, tournament-level checkers was played around the world, with the first world championship awarded in 1847. However, during the Regency, draughts was still mostly an amusing pastime which was enjoyed by many people, across all classes.
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As anyone who has played very long can attest to, just about any landbased or online game can be 'streaky'. At some point in time, all players will run into a strange losing streak or a particularly strange run of dice. When that happens, it is quite understandable for the player to question the integrity of the game.
There are 3 areas that are of most concern to all players:
- The possibility that the house is cheating;
- The possibility of the dice or cards being non-random;
- The possibility that a player has hacked into the system and is able to influence the cards or dice-rolls.| .
...In this respect, we should note that unlike games involving 3 or more players, there is no possibility of collusion going on amongst the players...
We will try to address each area of concern separately:
1. House Integrity
It is a difficult problem convincing the players that we are, in fact, honest operators, simply because there is no real way to prove it. A little deductive reasoning, however, should lead any player to the conclusion that we would be crazy to not run an honest game, merely for the reason that running an honest game is the very best strategy for making the maximum amount of money. While we are, at present, relatively small, our potential to grow is huge....therefore -- Cheating, while it might temporarily increase revenue, would clearly discourage growth, which is where the real profits, based on solely on gaming commissions, exist.
2. Randomness of Dice
This is a very legitimate concern, since it is no trivial matter to produce true randomness with a computer. Standard software random number generation routines are completely inadequate, as we discovered (there were clear patterns). After extensive research, we have created and implemented a proprietary patent-pending algorithm (involving the combination of hardware and software) that ensures sufficiently random card and dice generation. Subsequent testing, involving tens of thousands card shuffles and dice-rolls, proved that this randomization technique was completely to our satisfaction. Utilization of this randomizer algorithm virtually guarantees that there is never any bias towards any player and/or at any table at this site.
3. Hacker Influence
We use the most current, state-of-the-art security system identical to secure online banking systems in order to ensure that no one is able to hack into our systems and influence dice distribution, access accounts, etc. All dice generation takes place on our military-grade, highly secure Sun Microsystems Enterprise Servers with full firewall protection and 256-bit encryption security; the results are then distributed to the players' computers.
We use the same exact encryption technology as do the best of online banks - hacking into them is far more lucrative and just as difficult. Obviously, we also have monitoring software installed on our server, which would alert us were someone is attempting to break into our system.
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